Saturday, February 12, 2011

Sugar Extraction and Predicting OG

When you make beer, there's two main ways that you can go about doing it, one method is making it from extract and the other is via the all grain (AG) method.  When you first start brewing it's typical to go out and buy extract, it really speeds up the brewday.  When I talk about extract I refer to the sugars that go into our beer compressed into either a powder or syrup:


You can buy these by the pound from your Local Homebrew Shop or online.  It is a little more pricey but you're paying for a shorter brewday because you can just start the brewday by boiling the water.  On the other side we have the all grain method.  The AG method involves an extra step called the "mash", which can take more than an hour to complete in most cases.  It is basically steeping the crushed grains in hot water for an hour in order to extract the sugars from them.  And remember from the Determining Percent Alcohol post, the more sugars we can get from the grains, the higher the Original Gravity will be.  But I'm going to tell you a little secret *drum roll*... I've already predicted how much sugar will be extracted before I even steep the grains.  I mean, what kind of scientist would I be if I couldn't predict the future with math?... not a very good one.

The mash, as I said before, is steeping the crushed grains for an hour in hot water.  How hot?  About 150-158 degrees F.  Why?  That's the temperature range the enzymes in the grains are active.  These enzymes breakdown the starches from the grains into simple sugars that we can ferment into alcohol, so in summary, these enzymes are pretty freakin' important if you want to make beer.  It goes something like this:



The way we predict how much sugar will end up in the wort is through a term I like to keep track of called Mash Efficiency.  Mash Efficiency is recorded as the percentage of sugar extracted from the grain.  Each type of grain has it's own Grain Potential (reported as 1.0xx), which is what you would read on the hydrometer if you were to mash 1 lb of that certain grain and drain out 1 gallon of water with 100% extraction of the sugars.  This number may look very similar and in fact the xx actually are what we call "points", or another term, Gravity Units (GUs) from the BU/GU ratio post.  We refer to these as points sometimes because a term commonly used by brewers is ppg, or points per pound per gallon, which is what I described earlier about the 1 pound and 1 gallon extraction.  The terms are interchangeable, I could say "2-row has a Grain Potential of 1.036" or "2-row provides 36ppg", they mean the same thing.  For calculations we'll use the ppg value (or GUs, if you're more comfortable with that terminology).

Let's work through a real life example.  For the next brew that we have coming up, it's a relatively simple pale ale, containing only 2 types of grains. Here's the grain bill:

7.5 lbs 2-row (Grain Potential = 1.036)
0.5 lbs 60L Crystal Malt  (Grain Potential = 1.034)

Total = 8.0 lbs

The plan is to mash this 8 lbs of crushed grain with about 155F water for one hour.  How much water?  Up to you, it sometimes depends on the style of beer, but for the most part I've seen people use from 1.00qt/lb to 1.75qt/lb.  We usually go with 1.15 quarts of water per pound of grain, which works out to be 9.2 quarts or 2.3 gallons in this case.

Moving on... how much sugar will we get from this?  Well, I'm glad you asked.  Since we plan to make 5 gallons from this recipe, we'll probably need 6 gallons of wort generated from the mash, this will be called our pre-boil volume (it is typical for 1 gallon to be boiled off over the course of 60 min).  The pre-boil volume is whatever volume we get from the mash, so that will be our "per gallon" value in ppg, in this case 6 gallons.  Next we need to calculate how much sugar can be extracted if we extract 100% of the sugars from the grain.  Since the 2 grains we're using have different Grain Potentials we can calculate them separately, then sum them in the end:

2-row:                 7.5 lbs x 36 = 270 GUs
Crystal Malt:       0.5 lbs x 34 = 17 GUs

270 + 17 = 287 total GUs

So we can get a total of 287 GUs from all 8 lbs of grain.  Now we divide by the pre-boil volume:

287 GUs ÷ 6.0 = 48 GUs

What this tells us is that after the mash is over, and we're left with 6 gallons of wort, if we extracted 100% of the sugars our hydrometer should read 1.048.  But as I said earlier, that's not very likely to extract all 100%, so now we can multiply it by the Mash Efficiency.  In our setup, the mash efficiency is close to 80%, meaning we extract 80% of the sugars from the grains everytime we mash:

48 GUs x 0.80 = 38 GUs

Or in a real situation we would actually expect the hydrometer to read 1.038 because we would have extracted 80% of those sugars.  Doing one last basic step, we'll use the equation for dilution to find our final concentration of our wort after our boil from 6 gallons to 5 gallons (where Mx is concentration and Vx is volume):

M1V1 = M2V2
M2 = M1V1 ÷ V2
M2 = (38 GUs)(6gal) ÷ (5gal) = 46 GUs

So our final concentration of our wort (or the Original Gravity) is predicted to be 1.046.  How about that?  And we haven't even brewed yet!  A lot of times you'll here experienced brewers say "Oh, I was only 2 points off from my Target OG".  This OG calculation that I've just gone through is what they're referring to as the Target OG.

Mash Efficiency can vary from brewer to brewer and no one can tell you your mash efficiency for you.  You just have to brew and find out.  The only numbers you need to measure on brewday are the hydrometer reading just before you boil the wort and the exact pre-boil volume.  Along with the grain potentials that are available online, you can calculate your own mash efficiency for the next time you brew.  For our example, let's say that we mashed the grains mentioned above and got 6 gallons drained out and our pre-boil hydrometer reading was 1.036:

(Our hydrometer reading in GUs) ÷ (hydrometer reading for 100% of sugars extracted in GUs) = 36 ÷ 48 = 0.75 = 75%

If that was our hydrometer reading then we would have a mash efficiency of 75%.  If you're just starting to do all-grain brewing they say assume 75% mash efficiency when brewing for the first time, then you can calculate your actual mash efficiency from that.

Lots of factors affect the mash efficiency, such as crushing the grain (too fine or not crushed enough), water temperature, dead space where water gets trapped in your mash tun, etc.  So you really just have to experiment and find a balance that works for you.

Tuesday, February 1, 2011

X-Patriot

Starting off 2011 right, er... technically this was the last day of 2010.  That, and this wasn't our finest day of brewing either.  It was plagued with error, so maybe we didn't start 2011 off right.  Fellow homebrewer Scott developed a recipe for a pretty awesome American IPA, which he calls the "X-Patriot".

Two days before brew day I went to go make a yeast starter with the new 2000mL Erlenmeyer flask we got from Northern Brewer, and I was all excited about using it because I could heat the starter solution over my gas stove and cool the solution in the same container.  That way I could just pitch the yeast into the flask and avoid the step of transferring the solution.  Sounds like a plan, except for while sanitizing the flask I dinged it lightly on a measuring cup, causing the flask to crack ALL the way around, like a rock hitting a car windshield.  There goes my hopes and dreams.  Luckily, I had a gallon jug on hand, so I just used that as the stirring vessel.  Next problem was that the stir plate we're using for the first time gets WAY too hot, which is enough to heat the yeast to an uncomfortable temperature.  Typically you want the brewers yeast to be warm during a yeast starter, but not in the 100's degree F.  Problem was solved by constantly shutting off the stir plate or taking the yeast off the plate, either way the yeast didn't get to multiply as much as I would have liked.  And the funny thing is, we haven't even started brewing yet!

Last day of 2010 was quite a warm one here in St. Louis, I couldn't have asked for a better brew day, although thinking back on the day, there was a freak thunder storm/ tornadoes that leveled many houses a few miles west of us... yeah, forgot that part.  It rained hard for like 2 or 3 minutes near us, then it was sunny and 50F the rest of the day!

Starting off the day, when we threw in our heated strike water over the crushed grains we didn't reach the temperature we wanted.  We panicked and quickly boiled a quart of water to toss in but it only made the grain bed a degree or 2 higher.  We just cut our losses and settled at around 152F for the mash temperature.  Despite the warmer weather, we lost a lot of heat from our mash tun over the course of an hour, a lot more than usual.  Thinking back on this, I believe it was because the lid to the mash tun was slightly open because the cord for the thermometer was so thick.  Anyway, most of this didn't matter in the long run because we still extracted tons of sugars from the grains... crisis averted.  Now let's move on to the next disaster... apparently when I went to clean the ball valve of the boil pot, I forgot to add the washer back on when reassembling the apparatus.  This caused leaking in that area when we poured the wort into the boil pot... *sigh* so we cleverly poured the wort back into a bucket and wedged the O-ring back to a position to where it wasn't leaking.  But that wasn't all, oh no, the forces of the universe wouldn't let us get away that easy.  After boiling and cooling the wort, we went to drain it, AND.... nothing.  Not even a drop with the ball valve completely open!  It must have just been clogged with hops, so we did what we did best and tried (emphasis on the word "tired") to pour the wort through strainers and into the bucket by lifting and tilting the 10 gallon boil pot with 5 gallons of wort in it.  You can just imagine how much of a fail that was, we probably lost about 3/4 of a gallon useing this brilliant method... oh well.  Alright, enough complaining, here's the recipe:


X-Patriot American IPA
Grains

9.0 lbs                   Rahr 2-row pale                                          
1.5 lb                     German Munich Malt                                  
0.5 lbs                   Briess Caramel Malt 60L                                 

Hops

1 oz. Columbus (FWH)                                   14.4% AA
1 oz. Columbus (60min)                                  14.4% AA
2 oz. Simcoe (0min)                                         12.2% AA

2 oz. Cascade (dry hopped 10 days)            6.1% AA

Yeast

WLP060 American Ale Yeast Blend (Optimum Temp: 68-72F) - 1 quart yeast starter, 1 cup DME

BrewDay Stats 

Style:  American IPA

Brewed:  12/31/10

H2O/grain ratio:  1.24 qt/lb
Mash Temp (Time):  152.6F-147F (60min)
Mash Out Temp:  154F

Pre-boil Volume: 6.25 gal
Pre-boil SG:  1.052
Boil Time:  60min
Post Volume Boil: 5.0 gal
Mash Efficiency:  82%

Transferred to secondary:  1/8/11
Bottled:  1/29/11

OG = 1.064
IBU = 98.4
BU:GU = 1.54
Fermentation Temp:  64F-72F
FG = 1.010
Apparent Attenuation = 84%

ABW(%) =  5.6%
ABV(%) =  7.1%

I'm pretty excited to try this beer, we just bottled it last weekend so I'll have to update this post when we do get around to trying it.  Just smelling the aroma from dry hopping with the Cascade hops is enough to make me excited, hopefully this beer tastes as good as it smells.  Here's a couple of pictures:

We've got Scotty stirring the hops back into the boil on the left, and a picture of the beer dry hopped on the right.  You can kind of make out the wrap of the carboy heater, it's on pretty loosely but it keeps the beer at a nice mid 70F range, and considering the room I keep it in can get down to 60F, it's pretty helpful

Thanks to our friend Anne, who seems to have become our brew day photographer, which I'm really grateful for since Scott and I are either too busy or forgetful.  So if you do see any pictures of our brew day adventures, it's most likely from her.